November 18 - 27, 2012

Our last country: Switzerland- Zermatt, Bern and Leysin

Photos along the railways

From Italy, we had to take four different trains to get to Zermatt. Thank goodness we only had the two small suitcases and two backpacks because Jeff had insisted that I would not lift or carry any luggage so that my back and neck would survive the adventure.  I am sure everyone wanted to know who the princess was that didn’t lift a thing while her “man” worked as a pack mule up and down the many steps inside the train station! The ride was scenic going through the Italian country side and then into Switzerland. When we changed to the last train that would take us to Zermatt, we started pulling out the warm coats, hats and gloves. 

The train to Zermatt took us up into the Alps through many tunnels and along scenic valleys with snow-covered mountains in the distance.  There were waterfalls and beautiful vistas at every turn.

 

View from our hotel

Once we got to Zermatt, we were greeted with warm sunshine and a very clear view of the Matterhorn and surrounding mountain peaks. We learned that only a few of the many hotels and restaurants were open as the season usually begins sometime after Thanksgiving. But there were a few early skiers and some slopes open. We settled into a very nice hotel with a most accommodating and gracious desk clerk and began to explore the small village. Only small electric vehicles are allowed on the streets and when it is very snowy, they have horse drawn wagons and sleighs! The air was fresh, clean and crisp and even though the temperature was hovering at zero celcius, the sun was out and we were able to go around with coats unzipped, no hats or gloves for most of the day.

View of Zermatt from the cog wheel train

We took the highest-altitude cogwheel railway in Europe up the steep Gornergrat mountainside, about a 50 min. train ride.  We traversed snow covered forest areas up to the peak at 3,089 meters (approx.  9,600 feet. ) There was one amazing view after another and at the top we had a panoramic view of 29 different peaks all at over 4,000 meters!  It was COLD, snowy and slippery; I at least bundled up!!! Again as it was not the official season, the buildings at the top were closed. Some of the people had snowshoes and hiking poles ready to hike down and others had skis or snowboards. Most of us came for the view and took the train back.  We were so fortunate to have such a crystal clear sunny day and perfect views of the Matterhorn and other peaks. Last time Jeff was here was 1989 with his brother skiing and they did not see the Matterhorn until the last day of their stay. Often it is cloudy and you can’t see anything!!!

The church in Gornergrat

Church clock - bell tower

We also had fun exploring the city: we saw the cemetery of the Anglican Church of St. Peter’s where many of the mountaineers who had lost their lives on the Matterhorn and in the mountains around Zermatt are buried.  There was also a large memorial in the Catholic cemetery for Zermatt mountain guides who were killed in accidents.

Inscription - I chose to climb

Hinterdorf building

Another cool place was the Hinterdorf area, the oldest part of the village of Zermatt. There were barns stables and storage barns that were built between the 15^th and 19^th centuries. It was a great place to explore and offered plenty of photo opportunities. I could only  imagine the isolation of living here in the 15^th century- you had to be very hearty and self sufficient to survive the winters here!

While in Zermatt, we had tasty dishes of lamb in two of the better restaurants that were open.  Bart, Jeff’s brother, had made us promise to not have fondue or raclette until we were in Bern.  We loved our time in Zermatt but we were anxious to get to Bern to spend time with Bart and his family. Thanksgiving was going to be extra special as we have not ever been able to share this holiday with Jeff’s brother and family.  So we skipped San Moritz and took the train to Bern (only two changes), almost the last stop on our worldwide adventure.

From my I Phone

Bern, Switzerland

Bart & Beth along the Aare River

We were so happy to see the Swiss Pinkus family- Bart, Liliane and 20 year old son Brian- at the train station. As it was late, we stopped for a quick dinner of pizza (of all things!!) before heading back to their home. It is chilly here and the sun is only peeping out from time to time; but the area is so beautiful with rolling hills, lakes, and farms outside the cities. One of the things we did in the evening was to go to a light show in downtown Bern that was set against the Parliament building. It was an extraordinary show and almost impossible to describe. It was all set to music and the show draws out all the locals, (Bern is not a touristy town). There is also a beautiful path along the Aare River only minutes away from their house.  We took a walk through beautiful woods still with fall color and a blanket of leaves on the ground. We could catch a glimpse of rolling hills with farms of dairy cattle and sheep through the woods.

Brian flying!!

Brian coming in for a landing

Jeff took Brian paragliding for an early 21^st birthday present. We drove to Lauterbrunnen, a gorgeous area between two steep mountains.  The boys took a gondola up to the top of the mountain and then had to hike another 15 minutes up a steep incline. Each of them was strapped in with an instructor and they proceeded to run down the steep incline until they were lifted off the mountain.  Bart, Liliane and I were at the bottom with cameras in hand to take some photos as they floated down to earth. They rode the air currents and Jeff’s instructor let him steer the paraglide.  It was a brisk sunny day and Brian loved the adventure. We also bought the video for him so he would have it as a memory of his first flight. We had a great time and the best part was the big smile on Brian’s face as he landed!!!!

A successful flight

From the Thun Castle - left to right, The Eiger, The Moench, The Jungfrau

On the drive back we went to the city of Thun situated on a large glacier- fed lake with the snow covered mountains in the background. We went down to a castle (also on the lake) and I felt like I was in a movie set with ducks and swans, the trees  in the final stage of their autumn brilliance and the sun shining down. This is the town that Liliane wants to move to and I can see why. It has a few castles, a lake, a river and the most picturesque “downtown”. I am ready to help her pack!

The Thun Castle on the lake

That afternoon we had a delicious meal of raclette- a traditional Swiss meal where you melt different kinds of cheese under a heating element and then pour it over small cooked potatoes. This is accompanied by different dried meats, pickled onions and gherkins. YUM!

Jeff, Bart, Beth, Brian and Lee

Thanksgiving had both men in the kitchen. Jeff made a delicious chocolate cake with white icing and angel (Gail) biscuits. Bart deboned the turkey and used the bones to make the most incredible gravy. The table was decorated with gourds, pinecones and chocolates; it was a very festive occasion. Bart had invited some friends in for the dinner and a merry time was had by all. Jeff made bruschetta with some of the oil we brought from Italy; we enjoyed plenty of wine and prosecco and had all the usual Thanksgiving trimmings with dinner.  We skyped with the kids and took family photos.

Getting ready to chow down

Leysin- village in the Alps

Grapevines on the hillside on the way to Leysin

Leysin looking east

Leysin residential area

After we all recovered from a turkey coma, we left the next day for Leysin, a beautiful mountain village. At 1263 meters, Leysin is one of the highest villages in the French speaking part of Switzerland.  The road up to Leysin was lined with grape vines terraced up the mountain sides and made for a very picturesque vista. The history of the area dates back to 515 with the discovery of a foundation of the oldest abbey, Royal Abbey of St. Maurice, in the north-western part of the Alps.  It is believed that the actual village was settled by people escaping robbers who were pillaging the valley after the fall of the Roman Empire. Roman coins have been found in the fields in this area.  Leysin became internationally known in the late 1700’s and early 1800’s for its many health clinics due to the fresh air and sunshine. By 1900’s, the town was a haven for tuberculosis sufferers and had 37 clinics. However, with the discovery of antibiotics along with the end of World War II, most of the clinics were abruptly closed. Tourism became the next boon for this town as the clinics were converted into hotels, ski resorts and sports complexes. Leysin is also home to several excusive boarding schools, including an all Japanese school. We stayed in a beautiful chalet run as a B&B and had a gorgeous view of the mountains outside our window.  I felt like “Heidi” would run out into the meadow any minute!!!

Daybreak in Leysin

Coach Bart at half time

Successful layup

Bart coaches the basketball team for the International School (which is an IB school of the highest quality) in Bern and every year a big tournament is held in Leysin.  We really had a great time watching the kids play basketball and exploring the village. Bart has a super team of 12 young high school age boys. We loved watching them play and Jeff took some great action shots of each of the players along with a team photo.  I felt as if they were all “my” boys and I was cheering as loud as or louder than the parents!!!  In the evenings we all had dinner together and then the boys would go play pool in one of the local bar/restaurants. Jeff and Bart challenged some of the boys in pool and I think they were surprised how well the “old” guys could play! We really enjoyed having the opportunity to be with Bart and watch him coach his boys. He has been coaching at the school for 14 years and it has become a passion with him. The boys and parents love him! Jeff and I got a chance to visit with some of the parents, many of them Americans or English who were working in Switzerland. I think I would have loved to have been able to teach at an International School and work with kids from so many different countries. Just being there made me miss teaching and my students. It really was a great weekend! 

Bart & Brian in Gruyere

On the way back to Bern, we stopped to have cheese Fondue (Swiss style) in the town of Gruyere, a medieval town with a castle overlooking the valley. The cobblestone streets are now lined with small shops and restaurants for tourists and the surrounding areas have sheep and chickens grazing in the meadows. All of the sheep had bells around their neck so it made a pretty sound as they moved around. It was a fun town to explore.

The age old brain crush torture - Why is Beth smiling?!

Beth & Jeff in Gruyere

Enjoying the best fondue

More onion braids than you can imagine

The next day we went to an Onion Festival in the downtown area of Bern. The weather was cold and wet but that did not stop the thousands of people who were in town. School was closed for the festival and so were many businesses. The kids were having a ball throwing confetti on everyone. They had these plastic “hammers” that when you hit someone on the head, confetti would burst out. There was a great deal of food; garlic bread, bratwurst, cheeses, sweets, breads and of course lots of different wines and beers. It seems that a great deal of this trip has been eating the different foods unique to each of the countries we have visited. We each weigh 300 lbs now!!

Beth loved the onion wreaths

At the Onion festival there were lots of craft booths- I never knew you could make so many cute things out of onions. My favorite was wreaths made with small onions, garlic and dried wildflowers.

Alp Horn player near the tram station

As we were leaving the festival area we came upon a man playing an alp horn. I have only seen these in movies so it was pretty cool to hear one being played. We had a marvelous time at the festival despite the grey skies and rain!

We had a wonderful week just hanging out with the Swiss Pinkus family and catching up with each other’s lives. I wish we did not live so far apart but we left promising to not let so many years go between visits. None of us are getting any younger!!! Thank you Bart, Liliane and Brian for a terrific week in Switzerland and a spectacular Thanksgiving! There is nothing like family!!!

I cannot believe that our journey has come to an end. We have had the most amazing adventures and I feel so blessed that Jeff and I got to experience this together, and that we were able to include both our children in the first part of the trip; visit with Dom and Bobby and Ichi in Bangkok; spend time with dear friends Mike and Gail in Italy and end our trip with Jeff’s wonderful brother and family in Bern.  This memory will keep us warm in the coming years and will always stand out as a very special time in our lives. I highly recommend this to any of our blog readers and friends. If you have the chance, do it; it will change you in many subtle and profound ways. 

So now we depart for Miami via Zurich with a change in Dusseldorf, Germany (only an eleven hour trip). We are ready to sleep in our own bed, enjoy the beautiful turquoise waters, feel warm sunshine and get ready for the Christmas season where we are lucky to have both kids home for a few days over the holiday. I have to say that 2012 has been one of the best years of my life and I think Jeff would agree!!! Thanks for taking the journey along with us.