November 10 – 16, 2012

Floods in Venice, Overcast in Florence and Gorgeous Sunshine in Cinque Terra

We said goodbye to Mike and Gail at the train station and started on the next leg of our trip. I had been to Venice twice before, once as a child with my parents and again with Michelle on a high school class trip. Jeff had never been. I was excited to share this magical city with him. 

Our first view of the Grand Canal

Old one handed clock in Rialto Square

Random canal view

University graduation at St. Marks Square

When we first got there we took the vaporetto (water bus) down the Grande Canal to our hotel.  The sun was peeking behind an overcast sky as we explored all the unique alleys, bridges over canals and into “Piazza San Marco”, St. Mark’s square. As we approached the famous square it was clear something unique was going on as it was packed with people. We quickly realized that it was a university graduation that had just concluded and all the graduates in cap and gown were having their photos taken with family and friends. Many wore wreaths of laurel on their heads or around their necks and several donned crazy costumes to parade around in.  All the streets were filled with singing graduates, carrying bottles of wine and the whole town took on the atmosphere of one big party.

We found a great restaurant and enjoyed another amazing Italian meal with the tastiest tiramisu and more great local wine. Our hotel room overlooked a plaza that had two bars where the patrons get their drinks but sit or stand in the plaza. I think every graduate made their way to that plaza at about 11:00 PM and they stayed and partied into the morning!! Ah youth!!!!!

Rialto Square in the mormning

Railto Square at night without the water

The next morning we looked out our window only to discover that the plaza was flooded with over a meter of water and more coming in.  Apparently, along with an unusually high tide, the winds were blowing half a gale in from the south, the Syroccan Winds they are called, and this was pushing the sea into the city. We were trapped in our hotel until noon when the water began to recede enough for us to get out and explore some of the alleyways. Everywhere we went there were shopkeepers, many in hip boots, sweeping out the water from their shops and trying to dry out so they could open their doors for the tourists. The hottest selling item was a pair of “boots” made up of a hard plastic sole and colored plastic that came up to your thighs; secured with plastic ties at the foot and a large shoelace at the thigh. We each bought a pair as St. Marks and the alleys close to it were still flooded. We were told that when the water was at its highest, people were swimming in the famous square.  

Beth in St. Mark's Square

So wearing our new boots, we made our way to” Palazzo Ducale”, the Doge’s Palace, a magnificent  combination of Byzantine, Gothic and Renaissance architecture and once the center of the Venetian Empire and government.  This was once the residence of the Doge, the elected ruler of the city. The palace was made up of many lavish chambers with masterpieces on display by Titian, Tintoretto, Veronese and Bellini to name a few.  There were gorgeous frescos and gold leaf everywhere. In one the rooms there were huge maps painted on the walls and two giant globes on display. There were also eerie narrow passageways leading towards the prison cells and over the Bridge of Sighs. The famous Casanova was imprisoned there. 

Doges Palace - view from the Vaporetto

Doges Palace courtyard

Statue guarding the palace stairway

Beth at the door to my cell

View of an island from the upper floor of Doges Palace

Pistols on display - no photos please

More weapons at the Doges Palace

The Basilica

St. Mark’s square under water meant few pigeons which is unusual, and all the cafes were closed so I could not get my $20.00 beer (a bargain price!). However the square displays some of the most impressive architectural master pieces of its time in the Bell and Clock Towers, Saint Mark’s Basilica and the facades of the grand buildings that line the square.   Saint Mark’s Basilica enshrines the city’s history and Saints relics and has many gold mosaics within.  You can picture Marco Polo striding across he square and feel the glory of this once powerful city before it lost out to the trade routes to the New World which heralded its decline in power over the seas. 

One Handed Clock Tower

Water flooding into St. Marks Square as high tide approaches

Once we could take off our boots, we continued to explore the city, enjoying in particular the Rialto Bridge where many an Italian couple spent the time kissing, and watching the gondolas navigate the canals along with the boats hauling the trash, laundry and anything else that needed moving in a city without cars and trucks. The gondolas were a little too touristy for Mr. Pinkus so we decided to hop back on the water taxi for a tour of the Grand Canal and to catch sunset along the water.  Along the canal, we saw one extraordinary architectural master piece after another.  This was the perfect way to see the beauty, charm and color of this unique city built on water. Both of us had our cameras in overdrive and it could not have been a more perfect end to the afternoon.  

After another terrific dinner, we were making our way back across St. Mark’s Square around 9:00 PM when we saw the water quickly bubbling back up through the storm drains. The tide was coming in fast and the streets were going to be flooded again. We just made it across the square running up the middle and jumping up on some platforms that were put out for the pedestrians caught unawares. After being trapped in our room yesterday, we decided to not take another chance and so the next day we decided to head for Florence where we heard there was some sunshine and no floods. We talked to a few tourists who had come from Rome and the streets were flooded there too.  Venice should be on everyone’s bucket list, it really is a most amazing city!

Rialto Bridge

Rialto Bridge at night

Sunset on the Grand Canal

 
Overcast Florence- with a little sunshine!

David Statue in Florence

Mustachioed Mona Lisa

Florence did not disappoint- we had some sunshine and no rain to speak of. We stayed in a very nice boutique hotel that was totally done in white!  Since Florence is known for its many museums, art galleries, palazzos and churches, I knew I had to choose wisely as I used up most of my museum equity visiting every Buddhist temple and shrine in the Orient, not to mention the ruins in Greece and Turkey! So the first place we went to was the Galleria dell’ Accademia which is home to the original “David” sculpture by Michelangelo.  The gallery held many outstanding sculptures and other works of art too but the David was exquisite.  Even though I knew this was one large piece of beautiful white marble, David was so lifelike- you could even see the veins in his arms and hands. 

Depiction of DaVinci's death in oil

 Jeff “neglected” to see the no photo signs again, so he was able to get in a few shots before everyone was reminded of the “no photos” rule.  The museum was connected to the Accademia Carrara, an art school and so there were also exhibits of modern art throughout the museum right next to all of the ancient masterpieces. In the same room as the David sculpture, there was a piece titled “Table with a White Cloth on Railroad ties”- and that is exactly what it was! Really, next to Michelangelo’s David!!! Someone has a weird sense of humor!!!  Also on display was Marcel Duchamp’s moustached and bearded “Mona Lisa”, 1919, and Andy Warhol’s colorful interpretation of “The Last Supper”.

 In one area of the museum there was a room that housed antique musical instruments that had been owned and played by the powerful de Medici family. There were some amazing instruments like the hurdy gurdy on display. In an adjoining room there were computers where you could listen to the music made by these instruments.  We both enjoyed this section of the museum.  As I said, this museum had a very eclectic collection- something for everyone!

Pink copy of the David Statue

Hurdy Gurdy

We then walked to the Piazza Del Duomo and saw the St. Maria Del Fiore Cathedral and then on to the Piazza Della Signoria where there was a copy of the David and many other excellent sculptures of Roman Gods and Heros. There was a beautiful fountain and it certainly was the place for hundreds of tourists to gather as there were lots of photo ops.

St. Maria Del Fiore Cathedral

Roman warrior & Centaur

Birth of Venus - Botticelli

View of the Arno River from the Uffizi Museum

There was also the Palazzo Vecchio but there was only time for one more museum and so we made for the Galleria degli Uffizi, considered the most important museum in Florence.  Jeff was a trooper as we went from one religious painting gilded in gold of the Madonna and Child to another.  After about 10 rooms of this style of painting, we began to see paintings by Italian masters that we were familiar with. One of the most famous paintings in the gallery was Sandro Botticelli’s” Birth of Venus”, 1485, showing  Venus rising from the sea looking like a classical statue floating on a seashell (protected behind glass- sorry, no photo but we included one from the internet).  One of the unique features of this museum is it had copies of some of the most famous works done in plaster relief so the blind could touch it and thus “see” the masterpiece!

One of the many Madonna and Child

Outside the museum there were several “living” statues; one was a cupid who for a coin would let you “shoot” his bow.  The museum was huge, two stories housing works by Duer, Michelangelo, Leonardo da Vinci, and  Raffaello, to name a few.  From a window on the second floor we had a magnificent view of the Arno River and a bridge that has stores and homes built on it. The courtyard had some impressive statues, stairwells and fountains.

Gilded room in the Uffizi Museum

Cupid street statue being shot by oriental tourist

A great street musician we encountered on one of our walks; one of the best we heard on the trip

Beth walking along the Arno River in her new leather jacket

We were able to hook up with a Taoist Tai Chi class in Florence on the other side of the river. We took a cab there and were welcomed warmly by the instructor Lucia and the class participants. There were a good 25-30 in the class and we felt that we fit right in. After class, we decided to walk back to the hotel as it would take us along the romantic Arno River. It was a brisk 45 minute walk with great views of the city all in lights.

We had a very memorable meal in Florence. Mike and Gail had told us that we had to order steak Florentine while we were in the city that made it famous.  This is Italian’s answer to Kobe beef and it is not a cheap meal; you pay by the gram.  So we decided this would be a dinner and asked for a recommendation from the hotel desk for a restaurant known for its steak Florentine.  We wanted a local restaurant, not one catering to tourists.  The hotel clerk made reservations at a small restaurant within walking distance to our hotel and so we were off for a gastronomical treat!  The meal was amazing; we started out with a goose brisket in raspberry sauce that was to die for. The steak was cooked to perfection, a huge porterhouse style cut seared quickly on both sides and served rare with the perfect seasoning. It was the most tender and flavorful piece of beef that we have ever tasted. This massive steak was accompanied by the best potatoes I have ever had- it was more like a homemade thick potato chip but very crispy on the outside.  We devoured the meal along with excellent wine and a perfect tiramisu to end the meal on a sweet note.

Goose Brisket with Raspberries

Florentine Steak

 During the course of the meal we struck up a lively conversation with the two men at the next table. The one gentleman spoke excellent English and did most of the talking. He was quite a character and you could tell that he was a frequent diner at this small, charming restaurant. We talked education and politics- he is a publisher of textbooks for K-college and is a well traveled man.  At the end of his dinner, he left and paid his bill and then came back and whispered something in Jeff’s ear and left.  He had paid for our dinner!!!!! We did not even exchange names!!! Another amazing act of Italian hospitality!!  The waitress had his card so we were able to send him an email thank you. This is another example of why it is so hard to describe Italy!!! We were certainly blown away by this man’s generosity to complete strangers!!!!  Who was that masked man?

On our walk home, we saw the man building a guitar

Sunny Cinque Terre and La Spezia

Beth enjoying the view overlooking Riomaggio

Back on the train in search of sunshine, we ended up staying at the port town of La Spezia, only a 9 min. train ride from the first of the picturesque villages that make up Cinque Terre. It is off season and most of the hotels, restaurants and shops in Cinque Terre are closed. We stayed in a lovely hillside hotel in the small city of La Spezia. It was a nice town with a small port and good fish.  We found our first coin laundry of the trip so we didn’t have to fill our bathroom with clothes washed out in the sink!!!! 

Riomaggio - They stack the boats everywhere

We took the train over to Cinque Terre and what a lovely slice of paradise it was.

Riomaggio - Harbor view

Cinque Terre is made up of five very different seaside villages, most of them hugging the steep cliffs overhanging the Mediterranean Sea.  During season, this place is jammed with European tourists escaping to the charming seaside villages, which are now part of a National Park and are protected (no McDonalds or Starbucks in sight!!!) I had not heard of this part of Italy until my friend Nan told me about this idyllic place that she hopes (she will) to visit someday. My friend Sandi had been there and shared a booklet describing the cities so with two great recommendations, we added it to our itinerary. We were not disappointed!!!

Riomaggion - cliff

Riomaggio - Tunnel to train station

Riomaggio

unique!!!!


We went to the first city, Riomaggiore. To get to the city from the train you had to walk through an amazing tunnel with one wall a continuous mural in stone, ceramics and glass. Jan and Kristie would have loved it!!! 

Monterossa Beach

After exploring this city, we boarded the train for the farthest city, Monterossa al Mare, where we had a great lunch of fried squid, bruschetta and prosecco- Italian champagne.  We explored the beach and only saw a few couples doing the same thing. After lunch we took the train back; stopping in each of the cities except Corniglia which was not along the coast but 352 steep steps up the cliffs. But we did stop in Vernazza and Manarola.  You would think that all these villages would be alike as they are made up of beautiful old houses clinging to the cliffs with steep roads and charming restaurants and shops, but they were  each very unique!!!! 

Beach chair debris Jeff found on the beach

South east end of Monterossa

Enjoying and afternoon Grappa in Vernazza

Grandpa fishing with grandson

Vernazza Harbor

Not only the tourists enjoy the view of Manarola evenings

Manarola at dusk

My favorite city was Manarola, a crazy beautiful town with the boats all on rollers parked along the very steep streets.  It has an incredible harbor and the views are magnificent in all directions. We stayed for sunset in this city. We were not disappointed with the view of the sun going down to reveal a beautiful crescent moon ascending; such beauty!!  Our only disappointment was that the trails that connect each of the cities and run along the cliffs had been closed due to heavy rains the week before.  We really had hoped to hike the trails and probably would have spent more time there if they had been open. This is a place I would love to come back too; not in season, but certainly before Nov. 1 when most of the towns close down for the winter! Thank you Nan and Sandi for telling us about this part of paradise on earth!

Beth enjoying the sunset up on the cliff

Manarola boat ramp

Sunset in Manarola

Manarola boats lining the street

One more tale of a great dinner and Italian hospitality before we head to Switzerland:

On our last night in La Spezia, we took the hotel’s recommendation for a restaurant down by the water that is known for their fish. We each ordered dishes that our waiter (also one of the owners) recommended and we were not disappointed.  I ordered a small glass of the local white wine and our waiter brings me a carafe- he also brings over appetizers and house specialties for us to try- no charge. When he sees that I don’t have a clue how to attack my fish dinner, he comes over and debones the entire fish and leaves me with tasty morsels of the most delicious fish in a light lemon and wine sauce.  Jeff and I had noticed a painting on the wall that had to be our waiter’s dad and mom. Also all three men who were waiting tables or working the front looked alike and were the spitting images of the man in the painting. After dinner, I asked our waiter about the painting and he proudly said that yes, this was his parent’s restaurant and now the brothers ran it. He proceeded to have us get up and go into the kitchen to meet the chef, the 3rd brother and do a tour of the place and insisted we try some of their homemade fruit liquors which I have  to say were quite tasty. Now this was all done in Italian (what little we spoke) and French (what little I could remember from high school) as no one there spoke much English. So there was a great deal of smiling, hand gestures and head shaking and it seemed we all communicated pretty well!!!  At the end, he told me he could not charge us for the wine because I did not drink enough and then he reduced the bill even further. Again, great hospitality, many acts of kindness and another wonderful Italian dinner experience. We have loved Italy!!! How does one explain Italy???

Manarola - interesting rock formation

Goodnight Manarola

From here we venture to Zermatt, Switzerland (home of the famous Matterhorn) and snowy vistas!!! This should be a fun train ride!